Read-write permission on hfs+ USB drive (iPod)

I'm having trouble writing to a HFS+ formatted iPod nano (3G). Linux (and Banshee) can read it fine but the Properties show the owner as Root with User (me!) and Others having only read access.

I've edited the fstab to contain an entry for the iPod's UUID:

UUID=<iPod's UUID>    /media/iPod      hfsplus    force,rw,user,noauto     0    0

Unfortunately, the 3G iPod nano is one that can't be reformatted to FAT32 or something more obliging than HFS+.

Any suggestions?